December 17, 2008
Holiday Markets in Strasbourg
Megan Smith READ TIME: 3 MIN.
With the Christmas season upon us, few destinations glitter with as much holiday charm and romance as Strasbourg, France, where gay as Christmas takes on a whole new meaning. A fusion of German and French heritage and home to France's oldest holiday market, the city is a haven for holiday lovers who want a getaway from the big city stress without heading out into the boondocks.
Strasbourg is located in western France in the Alsace region, an area on the German border that was returned to France after World War II. It is one of France's largest cities and seat of the European Union's Parliament when it isn't in session in Brussels. As such, the city is far from a quaint village, but the medieval city center, surrounded by various waterways and canals, bursts with old world charm, especially during the holiday season.
Visiting Strasbourg is relatively easy if you don't speak French or German. The tourism industry is booming here and caters primarily to French, German, Italian, and English tourists. There isn't as much attitude as you'll find in Paris, which is only 2.5 hours away by train. The best way to see the city, even in the dead of winter, is by foot. If it is unbearably cold, a riverboat ride around the city and through the canals can be a great way to see the city without sacrificing your toes to frostbite. La Petite France is the most historic part of the city center where the canals crisscross the corner of the main island. Crossing the river towards the cathedral will lead to the main city center where all of the holiday magic happens.
The gothic cathedral, called Notre Dame like any cathedral in a French town, is noticeably missing a tower (they ran out of money for the second!). But the sandstone church is the fourth largest church in the world, and despite your religious tendencies, or lack thereof, it is not to be missed. In any case, the church can be your north star as your wander, like a big pink beacon calling you to the center of the city.
It's here by the cathedral that the streets fill with holiday stalls from right after Thanksgiving to right after the New Year. The medieval half-timber houses are saturated with holiday decorations, angels, bells, pine sprays, and red bows. There is a good chance that snow will dust the rooftops and streets during your visit to the market, cementing its reputation as a holiday capital. The best times to visit according to local shopkeepers are either the first weekend, before the full rush of crowds muck up the market, or the weekend right before Christmas when most people are busy traveling home. But visiting any time in between is sure to be a memorable experience.
While the gay nightlife in Strasbourg is not its selling point, its dining and food specialties are quite pleasing. Once the temperatures begin to drop, vin chaud, or spiced mulled wine, flows like water in bars and caf?s and throughout the holiday market. Bakers concoct all sorts of holiday treats, notably gingerbread in the form of small frosted stars. And for any gay traveler, sausage will be on the menu - in one way or another. Alsatians tend to serve theirs up steamed or fried on a bed of locally produced sauerkraut. Vegetarians beware, the cuisine in Strasbourg is heavily German-influence, so expect a lot of potato pancakes and salad.
After a weekend of shopping, drinking hot wine, and singing carols in the street (after one too many hot wines...), you'll feel like you're already home for the holidays.
Megan is the Assistant Travel Editor for EDGE Publications. Based in Australia, she has been published in gay and lesbian publications in both America and Australia, and she has been on assignment as a travel-writer for Let's Go travel guides in Australia, New Zealand and Hawaii.